Twist Hairstyles: Complete Guide
If there's one technique every natural should master, it's twisting. Twists are incredibly versatile—they can be worn as a style on their own, combined into elaborate updos, or unraveled for defined curls. They're gentler than braids, easier to learn than cornrows, and work on virtually every natural hair texture. This guide covers everything you need to know.
Types of Twists
Two-Strand Twists
The foundation of twist styling. You take two sections of hair and twist them around each other, creating a rope-like pattern. Two-strand twists are simple enough for beginners but can create stunning results. They work as a style on their own or as the setup for twist outs.
The technique is straightforward: divide a section into two equal parts, cross the right strand over the left, then the left over the right, and continue to the end. Twist in a consistent direction for uniform results.
Three-Strand Twists
Add a third strand for a slightly different look. Three-strand twists (sometimes called rope twists) create a rounder, more rope-like appearance and often hold better than two-strand twists for twist outs. The technique is similar—just rotate three strands instead of two.
Flat Twists
Two-strand twists done close to the scalp, similar to cornrows but using a twist technique instead of braiding. Flat twists create sleek, close-to-head styles and are excellent for updos, flat twist outs, and adding interest to other styles. They take more practice than regular twists but are easier than cornrows for most people.
Twists with Extensions
Adding hair—typically Marley, Havana, or passion twist hair—creates longer, fuller twists that can be worn for weeks as a protective style. Extension twists are generally gentler than braids because the twisting technique creates less tension than braiding.
The size of your twists dramatically affects the final result. Smaller twists create tighter, more defined patterns when unraveled. Larger twists create looser, wavier results. Neither is better—it depends on the look you want.
How to Do Two-Strand Twists
Start with freshly washed, conditioned, and detangled hair. You can twist on wet, damp, or dry hair depending on the look you want—wet/damp hair creates more defined twists; dry hair creates fluffier results.
Section your hair. Use clips to divide your hair into workable sections. The size of each section determines the size of each twist.
Apply product. Use leave-in conditioner, cream, gel, or whatever combination works for your hair. Product helps define the twist and reduces frizz.
Divide and conquer. Take one section and split it into two equal parts. Make sure the parts are as even as possible for uniform twists.
Twist consistently. Cross right over left, then left over right, maintaining consistent tension (firm but not tight) all the way down. Keep twisting until you reach the ends.
Secure if needed. Some textures hold twists without any securing; others need to be wrapped around themselves at the end or secured with a small rubber band.
Getting the Perfect Twist Out
The twist out—twists that have been unraveled to create defined, stretched curls—is one of the most popular natural hairstyles. Getting a good one takes some practice.
The Most Important Rule
Your hair must be completely dry before unraveling. This is non-negotiable. Damp twists will frizz immediately upon unraveling and lose definition within hours. If you're not sure if your hair is dry, it's not dry. Wait longer or use a hooded dryer or diffuser to speed things up.
Separation Technique
Apply a small amount of oil to your fingers before unraveling. This reduces friction and adds shine. Gently untwist each section—don't pull apart aggressively. Let the strands separate naturally first, then gently separate further if you want more volume.
The Less You Touch, the Better
Every time you touch your twist out, you add frizz. Separate to your desired fullness, then stop. If you keep fluffing and touching throughout the day, you'll end up with a frizzy mess by evening.
Maintaining Your Twist Out
At night, loosely re-twist or pineapple your hair and cover with a satin bonnet. In the morning, you may need to separate again gently. Some people get 5-7 days from a twist out; others get 2-3. It depends on your hair and how much you can keep your hands off it.
If your twist outs always frizz on day one, try setting them overnight instead of for just a few hours. More drying time usually means better definition. Some people even set twists for 2-3 days before unraveling.
Flat Twist Techniques
Flat twists require a bit more skill but create beautiful close-to-scalp styles.
Section your hair along the pattern you want the flat twist to follow. Apply product for hold. Take a small section at the hairline—this is your starting point.
Divide into two strands and begin twisting as you would for regular twists. As you twist, pick up small sections of hair from the scalp and add them to the strands (similar to adding hair in a French braid).
Keep the twist close to the scalp as you move backward, maintaining even tension. Continue until you've incorporated all the hair in that section, then finish with a regular two-strand twist.
Flat twists can go straight back, curve, or follow any pattern you choose. Practice makes perfect—don't expect salon-quality results on your first try.
How Long Do Twists Last?
Twists with your own hair typically last 1-2 weeks before looking fuzzy or frizzy. You can extend the life by wrapping at night and minimizing manipulation.
Twists with extensions last 4-8 weeks depending on the hair used, installation method, and your maintenance routine. Don't push past 6 weeks for optimal hair health.
Flat twists on their own usually last 1-2 weeks. As a base for other styles (wigs, extensions), they can last longer but should be refreshed regularly.
Twist Styling Ideas
Twists worn down—simple, classic, and professional.
Twists in an updo—twist your hair, then pin up into a bun or elaborate style. The texture from the twists adds interest.
Half up, half down—flat twists on the top/sides with twists hanging down in back.
Twist out variations—separate more for big hair, less for defined curls. Try twist outs on different size twists for different looks.
Flat twist crown—flat twists around the perimeter of your head creating a crown effect.
The Bottom Line
Twists are one of the most useful techniques in natural hair styling. They're gentler than braids, versatile enough for any occasion, and work on virtually every texture. Whether you wear them twisted or unraveled, dressed up or casual, mastering twists opens up endless styling possibilities. Start practicing—your hair will thank you.
After years of heat damage and chemical treatments left my 4A curls lifeless, I dedicated myself to learning everything about natural hair care. Now I help women embrace their natural texture with science-backed tips and real-world advice. When I'm not researching the latest in hair science, you'll find me mixing DIY hair masks in my kitchen.