Curly Hair Types: 2A to 4C Guide
The hair typing system can feel overwhelming at first—all those numbers and letters flying around in natural hair communities. But understanding your curl pattern helps you choose the right products, techniques, and expectations. Once you know your type, the confusing world of curly hair care starts making sense.
Understanding the Hair Typing System
The most commonly used system was popularized by Andre Walker (Oprah's longtime hairstylist) and uses numbers 1-4 with letters A-C. The number indicates the basic curl pattern—how your hair naturally forms when healthy and properly moisturized. The letter indicates the tightness or diameter of the curls within that pattern.
Type 1 is straight hair—no curl pattern at all. Type 2 is wavy—S-shaped patterns that may or may not curl fully. Type 3 is curly—definite ringlets and spirals. Type 4 is coily or kinky—tight coils or zig-zag patterns.
Within each number, the letters go from loosest (A) to tightest (C). So 2A is barely-there waves while 2C is almost curly. 4A has defined coils while 4C has the tightest pattern with less visible definition.
Most people have multiple patterns on their head—it's completely normal to have looser curls at the crown, tighter ones at the nape, and something different at the temples. You don't have to fit into just one category.
Hair type is just ONE factor in choosing products and routines. Porosity (how well your hair absorbs moisture), density (how many strands you have), and individual strand thickness all matter too. Two people with 3B curls might need completely different products based on these other characteristics.
Type 2: Wavy Hair
Type 2 hair has a definite wave pattern but doesn't form complete spirals. It's often the most "in-between" category—not straight enough to behave like straight hair, not curly enough to follow curly hair advice completely.
2A - Loose Waves
The subtlest wave pattern. Hair is mostly straight with a gentle S-bend, usually more visible at the ends than at the roots. 2A hair is typically fine and can go flat easily. It's prone to being weighed down by heavy products.
Best approach: Lightweight products only. Volumizing mousses and light gels. Avoid oils and heavy creams near the roots. Scrunch products into damp hair to encourage wave formation.
2B - Defined Waves
More obvious S-shaped waves that start closer to the roots. 2B waves have more body and texture than 2A but still aren't forming actual curls. This type is more prone to frizz and benefits from anti-humidity products.
Best approach: Light hold products to define waves. Gel or mousse scrunched in. Diffusing can enhance the wave pattern. May benefit from some lightweight leave-in conditioner on ends.
2C - Deep Waves
Strong S-waves with some spiral curls mixed in. 2C often borders on curly—some strands may form ringlets while others wave. This type tends to be thicker and coarser than other Type 2 hair and is the frizziest of the wavy types.
Best approach: Can handle slightly richer products than other Type 2s. May follow some Type 3 techniques successfully. Benefits from both moisture and hold. Plopping and diffusing help define the pattern.
Type 3: Curly Hair
Type 3 hair forms definite spirals and ringlets. These curls have bounce, spring back when pulled, and are clearly curly rather than wavy. Type 3 hair tends toward dryness because the spiraling shape makes it harder for natural scalp oils to travel down the strand.
3A - Loose Curls
Big, loose spiral curls about the diameter of sidewalk chalk. 3A curls are often shiny, well-defined, and have a lot of movement. They're the loosest "real" curls and often get good definition without too much effort.
Best approach: Lightweight to medium products. Too much moisture can weigh down the curl. Focus on definition products like curl creams and light gels. Usually air dries well.
3B - Springy Curls
Tighter ringlets about the size of a marker or Sharpie. 3B curls have more volume and density than 3A. They spring back when pulled and can shrink significantly from stretched length. More prone to dryness and frizz.
Best approach: Regular deep conditioning. Layering products (leave-in, cream, gel). Benefits from the "squish to condish" technique. May need to refresh curls between wash days.
3C - Tight Curls
Corkscrew curls about the size of a pencil or straw. 3C hair is densely packed with lots of volume. These curls are prone to dryness and experience significant shrinkage—hair may appear much shorter than it actually is when stretched.
Best approach: Rich, moisturizing products. Regular protein treatments to maintain strength. The LOC or LCO method works well. May benefit from protective styling to retain length.
Shrinkage is a sign of healthy curls—it means your hair has elasticity. Embrace it or stretch it with techniques like banding, braiding, or twist-outs, but don't see it as a problem to fix.
Type 4: Coily/Kinky Hair
Type 4 hair has the tightest curl patterns and is often described as coily, kinky, or Afro-textured. Despite its density and volume, Type 4 hair is actually the most fragile because of its structure—each bend in the strand is a potential weak point. It requires the most moisture and gentle handling.
4A - Soft Coils
Tight S-pattern coils about the size of a crochet needle. 4A hair has the most visible curl definition in the Type 4 category. Coils are springy and well-defined when properly moisturized.
Best approach: Consistent moisture is key. Creams and butters help seal in hydration. Gentle detangling when wet and conditioned. Protective styling helps retain length.
4B - Z-Pattern Coils
Hair bends in sharp angles rather than curling—more of a zig-zag than a spiral. 4B hair appears denser and has less visible curl definition than 4A. It's very fragile at the bend points and experiences significant shrinkage.
Best approach: Very rich, moisturizing products. Butters and heavy creams. The LOC/LCO method religiously. Minimal manipulation. Detangle with conditioner and fingers only. Protective styling recommended.
4C - Tight Coils
The tightest coil pattern with minimal visible curl definition. 4C hair may appear almost straight when stretched but shrinks up to 75% of its length when dry. It's the most fragile Type 4 texture and requires extremely gentle handling.
Best approach: Extreme moisture focus. Heavy creams, butters, and oils. Very gentle handling—finger detangling preferred. Low manipulation styles. Regular deep conditioning. Protective styling most of the time for length retention.
Beyond Hair Type: Other Factors That Matter
Hair type alone doesn't determine your routine. These factors are equally important:
Porosity: How well your hair absorbs and retains moisture. Low porosity hair has a closed cuticle and resists moisture. High porosity hair absorbs easily but loses moisture quickly. This affects which products work for you.
Density: How many strands you have on your head. High-density hair may need more product; low-density may need volumizing approaches.
Strand thickness: Whether individual strands are fine, medium, or coarse. This affects how much product your hair can handle without being weighed down.
General Care Tips by Hair Type
For Type 2 (Wavy): Use lightweight products. Avoid touching hair while drying. Scrunch out any crunch from gel. Don't brush dry hair—it destroys wave pattern.
For Type 3 (Curly): Balance moisture and protein. Define curls while wet. Use a microfiber towel or t-shirt to dry. Deep condition weekly. Refresh curls between washes with water and leave-in.
For Type 4 (Coily): Moisturize constantly. Use the LOC/LCO method. Detangle gently with conditioner. Protective styles reduce manipulation damage. Sleep on satin. Trim regularly to avoid splits traveling up the strand.
The Bottom Line
Hair typing is a starting point, not a rulebook. Use it to understand your pattern and narrow down product options, but always listen to your actual hair. What works for another 3B might not work for you, and that's okay. Experiment, adjust, and find what makes YOUR curls thrive.
After years of heat damage and chemical treatments left my 4A curls lifeless, I dedicated myself to learning everything about natural hair care. Now I help women embrace their natural texture with science-backed tips and real-world advice. When I'm not researching the latest in hair science, you'll find me mixing DIY hair masks in my kitchen.